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As a major producer of oil and timber, East Kalimantan
is at present the most industrially advanced province of the island
and the second largest province in Indonesia. It is also the home
of the original inhabitants of Kalimantan, the Orang Gunung
or Mountain People. The tribes are collectively called Dayak, although
this name is not embraced by many tribes-people themselves, who
prefer to be known by separate tribal names such as Iban, Punan
and Banuaq.
Local tribes traditionally live in communal longhouses
called Lamin or Umaq Daru. They are built on wooden piles which
can sometimes be as tall as 3 metres high as protection against
wild animals and flooding. The Punan, however, are nomadic hunter-gatheres,
who still move around the jungles and only use the longhouse at
the height of the rainy season. Steeped in tradition, the interior
of the longhouse is typically divided into separate family quarters
with a communal area connecting each of the quarters and therefore
each of the families. It is in these communal areas that village
meetings are held and ceremonies performed, thereby reinforcing
the strong tribal bonds that have kept the Dayaks alive in the face
of rapidly advancing 20th century technology.
Guardian statues are normally placed in front of longhouses to protect
them against evil spirits who bring disease and bad fortune. Such
longhouses, however, are steadyly disappearing and many that remain
have been converted into meeting halls or stages for dance and music
performances. The more remote and traditional tribes-people have
pierced earlobes, which over the years have become stretched by
the weight of heavy gold or brass rings, and beautifully elaborate
tattoes. Local jewellery and designs are intricate and powerful,
often giving messages to be passed down from generation to generation.
The most common starting points for many journeys and
adventures inland are Balikpapan and Samarinda, the provincial capital,
because of regular flight services to Jakarta. Traveling along the
extensive Mahakam river system, which has carved its way through
the jungles and flatlands constantly reshaping and nourishing the
land, is a fascinating adventure. River boats slide unobtrusively
through heavily siltladen waters where plants and animals feed and
drink along these nourishing shores, wild orchids drip off trees;
Bekantans (Proboscis monkeys), orangutans, crocodiles, clouded leopards,
crab eating macaques, giant butterflies and the legendary hornbill
all live here.
A 5,000 acre Orchid Reservation close to the village
of Kersil Luwai cultivates 27 different species of orchid including
the very rare Cologenia Pandurata or black orchid.
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